Panel Plan Rev 3

I rearranged the GTN and mini EFIS. I included a close out panel to lay over the instrument panel, this will hide all the screws and how the instrument panel lays over the lower rail. I also added a little design for fun. I think it's gonna look really nice.

Panel Plan Rev 2

I updated the plan. Rearranged the avionics behind the panel, added an independent mini efis, and changed to the Garmin 650.

I swapped the location of the MFD and Garmin box, which has now changed to the GTN 650 to include ILS and VOR capabilities. I also added the AvMap mini efis/adahrs, it's a standalone system completely independent of the Dynon Skyview and has it's own Pitot/Static input for airspeed and altitude readouts. I also added a second iPad mini for passenger (wife) entertainment. Behind the panel mounted iPad will be a small "glove box" storage compartment. The iPad mounted to the center console will be running Foreflight.

This is a diagram showing all the avionics, instruments, and antennas required for the aircraft. This does not include: switches, probes, lights, or sensors. Note changes: Garmin 650 instead of 635 and added the Mini Efis.

This is a diagram showing the location of each component along with other view orientations.
Note:
- All of the components have been moved onto or aft of the subpanel.
- The VP-X will be mounted on a plate that spans the instrument panel lower angle and sub panel lip. This allows easy access to the component for the large quantity of wiring that will be going to it.
- The ribs do not need to be modified. Only the subpanel will need to be modified to allow the GTN 650 installation.
- The Transceiver and Transponder are mounted directly to the existing tunnel cover side by side.
- The new center console will be made from fiberglass and can be relatively thin since the only thing that is installing to it is the iPad mini.

This is the plan for now...and is still subsequent to change at any time : )

Rudder Pedals and Sound Panels

Dates and Times
Sun 13 -4.0hrs- made template for close out panels, made attach tabs, worked on rudder pedal install

Mon 14 -7.25hrs- Day off work, thank you Columbus
Deburr, dimple, rivet tabs in place using blind rivets
Cut sound panels out
Match drilled panels
Pick up holes in firewall...drill using unibit backed with wood
Paint panels black
Mask and paint fitting in airplane
While drying. Run rudder cables.
Glue foam to back of panels using 3m Fire Sealant
Install close out panels
Tues 15 -1.5hrs- installed sound panels, insulation, rudder pedals
After a little hiccup in building the rudder pedals they are now complete and painted...yay! I just left the doubler plate a brushed aluminum and they turned out really nice.

Installed the rudder cables.

I am installing soundproofing throughout the airplane and one of the noisiest areas, of course, is the firewall. Although I did not want the soundproofing touching the firewall directly, due to heat issues (also if you can have a dead air space between the aircraft and soundproofing it works just that much better), so I created some mounting clips that sound deadening panels will attach to . If you look really close at the picture below there are four clips on each side, highlighted with torque stripe orange to assist in my match drilling, that are attached to the firewall stiffening angles. These clips hold the sound panels off the firewall about 1.0in. I should mention that I am also installing a fire barrier on the forward side of the firewall to reduce heat exposure during normal operation and engine fire. So the total stack up starting from the front will be: stainless steel foil, 0.25" fiberfrax batting, firewall, dead air space, soundproofing foam, 0.020" aluminum sheet.

Everything installed! Just imagine the instrument panel, center console, carpet, and side panels in place....

A close up of the panel shows the cut out for the brake lines and how the sound panel is made of the 0.020" aluminum and 0.5" thick soundproofing foam all held off the firewall by the attach clips. Note one of the screws located adjacent to the brake lines.

Now that the rudder cables are installed I was able to install a few floor close out panels.

Instrument Panel Plan

I found myself constantly wondering what to do about the instrument panel and all the avionics. The question constantly popped into my head and it was followed with more questions. Do I just build the upper forward fuselage section and worry about all the avionics later? Will it all fit? Do I want to buy or build a center console? Stock panel or expensive aftermarket panel? Layout? Shape? Size? Install now or wait? etc...etc... So I decided to model the entire system to allow me to formulate a plan and resolve a lot of the questions and concerns I had.
So here is my plan...


This is the 3D model I created to show the aircraft structure and how I want to integrate my avionics; a Dynon Skyview system with a Vertical Power ECB and a Garmin GTN 635. I will be using Van's instrument panel and new fuel selector. I will be making the center console, side console closeout panel, and fuel valve enclosure. The center console mounts an iPad mini that is removable, and when removed reveals a small storage compartment for sunglasses etc. The instruments and avionics are shown below.

This is a diagram showing all the avionics, instruments, and antennas required for the aircraft. This does not include: switches, probes, lights, or sensors.

This is a diagram showing the location of each component along with other view orientations.
Note:
- There are mount angles attached to the ribs directly aft of the firewall. These angles are there to install the panels shown. The panels stand off the firewall 1.0in (no new holes in the firewall) and will be lined on the forward side with sound proofing. The other advantage to having the removable panels in this area is the avionics can be mounted to the panel, outside the aircraft, and then the panel screwed into place.
- The VP-X will be mounted on a plate that spans the instrument panel lower angle and sub panel lip. This allows easy access to the component for the large quantity of wiring that will be going to it.
- The ribs do not need to be modified. Only the subpanel will need to be modified to allow the GTN 635 installation.
- The Transceiver and Transponder are mounted directly to the existing tunnel cover side by side.
- The new center console will be made from fiberglass and can be relatively thin since the only thing that is installing to it is the iPad mini.

This is the plan for now...subsequent to change at any time : )

SkySwapper

When you're building an airplane you get to come in contact, and sometimes meet, really cool people that are into the same things you are. Through this journey of building a plane I have come in contact with Ed Kranz, a guy that's about my age, building at about my pace, and at about the same point in construction of the RV-10 that I am. (Oh and he's about to have a baby....so it seems we have a lot in common.) One thing Ed has done for the aviation community is develop a website called SkySwapper. It's a place to trade and buy airplane stuff. I figured the least I can do is mention his site to help build up a user base. The more users the more stuff to buy. Here is his Press Release to explain it all.

　

Experimental Aviation Community Has New Online Classifieds at SkySwapper.com



Hastings, Minn. (October 1, 2013) – SkySwapper.com is excited to announce the launch of their new website, an online classifieds dedicated purely to the needs of the experimental aviation community.

"Over the past few years I've noticed that many homebuilders communicate via their own separate online groups. Also, when people are looking to buy or sell parts (or planes), that experience is also quite fragmented. They post on individual email lists, dedicated builder forums, and the big general aviation classifieds sites, but often these listings would be of interest to everyone regardless of which type of plane they are building or flying," comments Ed Kranz, creator of SkySwapper.com. "As I’ve been building my own Vans RV-10, I found myself spending a lot of time searching many forums and big general aviation sites looking for parts and tools that any homebuilder could be selling. What I really needed was a place that builders could easily connect with other builders, regardless of what type of plane they had. SkySwapper.com fills that need."
 SkySwapper.com is currently in its beta release which means users are encouraged to provide feedback and suggestions on usability. "Posting ads with one photo will always be free, but during the beta you can sign up using the promo code: LAUNCH and be able to post ads with up to 4 pictures for free plus a few perks as a thank you for using the site."



SkySwapper.com includes classified ad sections for buying and selling in progress and completed aircraft, aircraft parts and tools, pilot accessories, airplane partnerships, and a community area where users can list events and volunteer opportunities. In addition, homebuilders could be featured as the SkySwapper Homebuilder Spotlight which includes pictures of their aircraft and interview highlighted on the site.

To learn more, go to www.SkySwapper.com.  

Flap System is Finished

Sorry for the big delay in posting. I don't know what happened. The days just flew by. A quick update and then I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story. I finished the flap actuation section. I had to open up the holes in the UHMW plastic bearings before they even slid onto the rods. I then installed the entire system and found everything to be very tight. There was a lot of resistance when trying to rotate the tubes. So I took it all apart and applied grease, didn't really fix the problem, so I took it all apart again and cleaned up the general purpose grease I applied and replace it with white lithium grease in the plastic bearings...now that worked. Everything rotates very smoothly now. I also added provisions for my flap position sensor to be installed later. And then I tested the motor with a 9-volt battery just to be sure everything moved like it should.

Dates and Times
Sat 5 -4.75hrs- Stripped and painted rudder pedals, started flap actuation section

Sun 6 -3.75hrs- Worked on flap actuation, bolted tubes in place, cut bushings, riveted and bolted rudder pedals

Tues 8 -1.0hrs- finished rudder pedal assembly

Wed 9 -1.25hrs 

Sat 12 -3.0hrs- finished flap actuation section

Used the jig to set the angles of the flap horns.

I created two angles. The upper picture is the angle that attaches to the flap crank and has a series of holes down the side to allow for fine tuning the distance the position sensor is pulled in and out as the crank rotates. The lower picture is the angle that will be used to install the actual sensor.

View looking forward showing the flap motor installed and the location of the flap position sensor.

View showing the flap crank attaching to the motor arm and safety wiring. Also the angle that will be used for the flap position sensor.

Completed Structure Overview (840.25hrs)

Time for another update!

It's getting a little difficult to show what I'm currently working on since I can't really highlight the brake lines or control system parts, among other things. A section that is coming up is the flap system so that area is highlighted red. I still need to build the rear seats and work on the upper cabin. I should be ordering the finishing kit soon.


840.25 hrs Total Building Time  
548.25  hrs is a mixture of tail and fuselage (still in work)
    292.0 hrs of the total belong to the Wings (includes times listed below)
       75.25 hrs to the Fuel Tanks
       25.5 hrs to the Ailerons
       26.25 hrs to the Flaps

Blue is complete. Red is in work.

Control System Complete

The control system has been fun to work on, but it does take a lot of adjusting to get everything correct. Once everything is together you make a measuring jig for the front of the system and with all the linkages connected the back bell crank should be positioned at 91.4°, I was a few degrees off. So then you take everything out or slide the tube forward or aft and adjust the bearings until the bell crank lines up. It all took way longer than I thought, but it's finished now and the bell crank is at 91.8° and I'm calling it good.

I also worked on the rudder pedals...these have been my Achilles' heel. For some reason I have been really stuck on these. Assembly of the parts is really easy, although what I thought was the front of the pedal is actually the back and put the rivets in backwards, so now the tails are looking at you. Well, I figured it's not a big deal just paint them and move on. I had a bright idea to coat them with vehicle under coating. Why not it's black, has texture to it, and should be durable. Prepping the parts and two coats later the stuff just chips right off......mistake. Ok now what. I decided to just drill them apart and strip the coating off and start over. The stripping (not the entertaining kind) and rebuilding will happen this weekend. Hopefully I can finish these and move on.

 

Dates and Times

Sat 28 -3.25hrs- Control System work
Sun 29 -3.5hrs- Control System work and screwing up rudder pedals
Mon 30 -1.5hrs- Control System adjustments, drilled apart rudder pedals
October
Tues 1 -1.0hr- Drilled control sticks
Wed 2 -1.25hrs- Finished Control System

The forward push pull tube that attaches to the control column needs extra clearance around the bearing. A longer bearing unscrewed more than half way is used to accomplish this. Unscrewing a bearing more than half way causes concern that it could come off and must be safety wired. The plans call for one side to be wired, but I thought two would be better. I then tie wrapped the two wires to the bolt to help clear the control column tabs.

Push pull rod installed.


I wanted to remove any slack in the system but I didn't want the control stick base continually rubbing against the control column flanges. So to resolve the issue I added two washers over the bushing.

Another view of the added washers.

All the parts assembled and torqued.