Com Antenna Doublers Finished

I finally rounded up some help to rivet the Com Antenna Doublers in place, Thanks Kris. They install in the second bay in from outboard under the seats on each side. (More info here) We had to re-dimple the rivet holes since the blind dimpler just didn't finish the dimple completely the first time. The install was easy once we got moving and I even tested the antennas and everything screwed in just like I hoped it would. We also routed the cable from the hole through a large grommet in the seat intercostal and then through the seat floor pan. (Times and more info coming in next post)

 

I traced the antenna footprint so when it's time to paint I know where to mask off without having to reinstall the antenna.































The Com Antenna cable routing. Currently the BNC connector is hanging out the hole in the bottom of the aircraft waiting for the antenna install to push it back up through the hole.

Stuff I Use

I wanted to document some of the items I have purchased lately for the plane.

 

I bought a Ray Allen POS-12 Position Sensor for the flaps. This sends an electronic reading to the EFIS telling which position the flaps are in.

 

I bought a MATCO PVPV-D Parking Brake. With this purchase I also needed 4 new NPT to AN fittings.

 

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I am using Permatex Pipe Joint Compound to seal my NPT fittings.

Link to Permatex Site Info

 

 

 

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In case I didn't note it before I am using Super Soundproofing to insulate the aircraft. 

This material is excellent for reducing noise levels in all types of certificated and home built aircraft. It is a closed cell vinyl insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. It is smooth on one side for easy attachment to the inside cabin skins, sides, top and front firewall.

Excellent for helicopters as well. Furnished in bulk 48" wide sheet, it is easily cut by scissors and attached with contact cement. Available in black only.

Complimentary Accessory: "How to Soundproof Light Aircraft" Supplement. To order this, simply add part number 09-42755 to your order.

 

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I technically haven't ordered this part yet, but will be soon. This is the Fuel Boost Pump Module from EFII. It includes two fuel filters.





 

The EFII Boost Pump Module (BPM) is the only product in its category that is professionally
engineered for maximum performance and reliability. The BPM delivers the lowest suction loss,
most stable pressure regulation, and highest quality components of any boost pump product
currently available.

The EFII Boost Pump Module also brings a new level of installation simplicity
and functionality to the fuel system of your aircraft. The BPM reduces a time consuming and
frustrating plumbing job to a simple and clean, easy to set up installation.
The Boost Pump Module is used to supply a steady source of 30PSI fuel to your engine
during take-off, landing, priming, or emergency situations. The BPM has integral back
flow prevention and pressure regulation valving.

 

 

 



 



Baggage Door and Brake Lines

I finished building the baggage door, although the section isn't complete because there are some closeout panels I need to install and I'm waiting on some more insulation before I do that. Building the door wasn't bad, although access to the rivets inside the c-channels is a bit annoying. Installing the brake lines wasn't bad either, although I find working with the hard lines can be tedious and finicky. Neither of the sections are complete as I am lacking a few steps in each. Should be finishing them soon.


Times
11th -1.25hrs- Deburred, dimpled, primed door parts.
14th -4.5hrs- Finished building baggage door.
15th -4.75hrs- Worked on brake lines.


I used some strips of insulation inside the door to make the internal skin a little stiffer. The strips will help absorb any impacts against the inside of the door.

 

 

I taped up some 0.063" spacers to help align the door hinge.

 

Only the finest quality tools are used for constructing an airplane.

Door is finished....sans lock.

Bending brake lines.

Almost finished installing the brake lines.

This is how the part pictured above fits into the aircraft. I had to make this part on both sides twice before I got it correct. Luckily my unused pitot line from the kit is the same material allowing room for the trial and error.

Engine Cowling: Vans Vs Showplanes

There are two engine cowlings available for the RV-10: the standard stock Van's Aircraft cowling and the Showplanes Cowling. Showplanes is a side company that makes parts for experimental aircraft. I am really undecided about which engine cowling I want to install when the time comes. So I thought it would be fun to ask you...the reader.

The Stats

Van's cowling
-Cheaper
-Ships with the rest of the finish kit
-Install instructions remain the same

Showplanes Cowling
-Requires larger more expensive spinner
-Improves cooling (although I have only heard this, I have yet to see any empirical data)

There is probably more points to be made, but I guess the ultimate question I ask is,

Which one do you think looks cooler?

This part is important! For those non aviation types the engine cowling sits right behind the propeller. Look closely at the engine inlets, the lower air scoop, or lack of scoop, the general shape etc..DO NOT LIKE OR DISLIKE BASED ON PAINT COLOR!    ...Have fun and feel free to leave comments.

Don't forget to vote at the end!

Van's Cowling

Showplanes Cowling

Create your free online surveys with SurveyMonkey , the world's leading questionnaire tool.

Finished Baggage Area

Another trip....another small break from building. We flew down to Destin over Labor Day weekend for my Brother-in-law's wedding. The flight was quick (quick in Cessna 172 terms...faster than driving let's say that) and easy. A little over 2hrs and the baby slept the whole way there and back.

 

Back to building.

 

I finished the baggage area over the last weekend. I have a side panel that's not permanently installed since I'm waiting on more insulation. I also didn't install the seat belt guides yet since I'm not sure what I'm doing there yet. Jess wants retractable seat belts....can't blame her I do too. I have a plan of how I'm going to do this, but until I have the parts in hand the guides will stay off the airplane. I also finished the foot well pans.

 

Dates and Times

September

Wed 4th - 1.0hrs - Pop rivet floor pans.

Thurs 5th - 1.5hrs - Rivet floor pans.

Fri 6th - 0.5hrs - Changed conduit run on RH side of aircraft to extend to seat frame.

Sat 7th - 4.75hrs - Baggage area work. Pop rivets etc.

Sun 8th -4.0hrs - Finished baggage area and panels. Started baggage door.

Tues 10th - 0.5hrs - Drilled and countersunk hinge

 

Finished the side frames. I primed them with "rattle can" epoxy primer.

I changed the conduit to run all the way to the aft seat frame. This area will be closed off with a riveted in side panel.



All the panels installed.

Started the baggage door.

I always feel like someone is watching me...

Foot Well Panel

I was tired of the careful stepping and balancing acts required to avoid the angles in the floor of the foot well and needed a better place to work from inside the airplane. So I decided to go ahead and install my floor pans into the foot wells. The floor pans are a very tight fit and like other builders I decided to just drill and dimple the parts on there own outside of the aircraft. The angles they attach to are already drilled and dimpled so I don't see any harm in this.

 

Then disaster, frustration, and high blood pressure ensued.

 

During the installation of my LH Floor Pan, a very tight fit, while trying to push slowly into position it snagged and slipped and wound up bending. This bending caused the side flange to buckle and the buckle caused a crack around a rivet hole. Pulling the part back out was a nightmare. I cussed, sweat dripping down my face, blood pressure soaring, this task was infuriating. It turns out the small cutouts that are designed to go around the frames of the bulkhead were too small, snagging and binding the pans during the installation.

 

I calmed down...sulked...got some iced tea....and went back to the shop....now what?

 

I decided to remove and deburr the cracked area of the flange on the floor pan, only on the outboard side, inboard side was ok. I'm still maintaining proper edge distance from the adjacent rivets. I also opened the cutouts that were causing the trouble large enough to clear the frames and slid the part back into position. I didn't think cutting out the cracked flange would be any problem structurally since it's just a floor pan or aesthetically since it will all be hidden behind carpet. But just to be sure I figured a second opinion wouldn't hurt so I sent an email to Vans's. They responded with:

"I see no problem with you removing the crack as you did form the floor panel."

Good....I continued building.


Date and Time
Mon 26 -1.0hr- Drilled and deburred parts

Tues 27 -2.25hrs- Deburred and dimpled parts

Wed 28 -2.0hrs-  Finished dimpling, back riveted stiffening angles, riveted access panel doublers

Insulation installed under foot wells.

 

 

Material removed from cutout to clear the frames.

 

Floor Pan in position inside foot well.

 

Area cut from floor pan angle.

I primed and installed the access hole doublers in baggage floors. I also back riveted all the stiffening angles and nutplates.



My Shop....AKA: THE AIRPLANE FACTORY.

Baggage Area Work

Time for another update.

Date and Hours Worked
20 -1.25hrs- Cut insulation
21 -1.25hrs- Clecoed baggage skins, drilled seat hinges
22 -1.5hrs- Drilled, deburred, dimpled foot well floor panels, cut insulation
24 -2.0hrs- Started Floor Pan installation (more on this later)
25 -6.25hrs -Drilled baggage area floors, access panel cutouts, insulation, conduit, match drilled side panels, made stiffening angles for floor panels



One advantage of where I work is having access to some nice avionics tools and the people that know how to use them. Which is why the installation of the BNC connectors for my VHF Comm antennas look really nice.

Most of the baggage area panels clecoed in place and ready for match drilling.

I located the LH and RH access panels (using the stall warning access panel and doubler along with an extra I ordered) as far outboard as I could. The limiting factor is the side panels.

I cut out the access holes. It's pretty easy, just follow the stall warning access panel installation instructions.

I got the conduit installed. I made some little clips to attach the zip ties to and just pop riveted them in place.

 

I've got two tubes on the right and one on the left. I enlarged the holes in the aft bulkhead to fit the conduit through and then supported it with the clips in the baggage area.

 

 

The RH outboard conduit attaches to the same clip in back but snakes through the rib lightening hole and will come up through the floor panel. All of the wire will hide behind the side panel and can pass along the side of the airplane through the existing holes in the frames. 

 

I drill a hole in the seat rib for the com radio cable. This will then pass through the seat skin as well.

 

I made the stiffening angles for the baggage area floors.