Finished - Baggage Door & Brake Lines / Started - Control System and Rudder Pedals

I've done a lot lately. A lot of little things which always feels like I've just been piddling around in the shop and really accomplishing anything. Although, I can now say: the brake lines are finished along with the parking brake, the baggage door section is complete, the antenna doublers are installed, more interior panels were soundproofed and installed, the seat floors were riveted in place, and I started on the rudder and control system sections. I do need to say Thanks to Ed for his video he posted on his baggage door. I basically followed the exact same installation method he had done and it turned out great.

 

 

Dates and Times

Tue 17 -1.0hr- built bracket for parking brake

Wed 18 -1.25hrs- repositioned brake lines

Thurs 19 -1.0hr- insulation

Sat 21 -6.0hrs- with help, antenna doublers installed, com antenna cables, insulation, rivet seat panels, finished brake lines, installed parking brake, torqued brake lines

Sun 22  -4.25hrs- Primed control system parts, riveted seat floors, cut tubing, riveted side closeout panels

Mon 23 -3.5hrs- riveted baggage door side panel, built rudder pedals, riveted ends onto control tubes 

Tues 24 -1.25hrs- push pull tube end caps 

Wed 25 -1.25hrs- control system work

 

You can buy an installation kit from Airward for the parking brake. It's essentially a machined bracket with hardware and costs a whopping $170. OR you can bend a piece of aluminum into a hat channel,  reorient the valve lever, and bolt into place and you have the same thing for free! I used the Permatex thread sealant on the NPT fittings and torqued the AN fittings as described in AC 43.13.

 

 

Final brake line install with soundproofing and torque stripe.

 

Finished installing the side closeout panels and ran coax for the com antenna



Riveted the rudder pedals together.



The push pull rods look so cool like this. Wrap some copper wire around them and it would look like I'm building something much more sinister than an airplane.

Com Antenna Doublers Finished

I finally rounded up some help to rivet the Com Antenna Doublers in place, Thanks Kris. They install in the second bay in from outboard under the seats on each side. (More info here) We had to re-dimple the rivet holes since the blind dimpler just didn't finish the dimple completely the first time. The install was easy once we got moving and I even tested the antennas and everything screwed in just like I hoped it would. We also routed the cable from the hole through a large grommet in the seat intercostal and then through the seat floor pan. (Times and more info coming in next post)

 

I traced the antenna footprint so when it's time to paint I know where to mask off without having to reinstall the antenna.































The Com Antenna cable routing. Currently the BNC connector is hanging out the hole in the bottom of the aircraft waiting for the antenna install to push it back up through the hole.

Stuff I Use

I wanted to document some of the items I have purchased lately for the plane.

 

I bought a Ray Allen POS-12 Position Sensor for the flaps. This sends an electronic reading to the EFIS telling which position the flaps are in.

 

I bought a MATCO PVPV-D Parking Brake. With this purchase I also needed 4 new NPT to AN fittings.

 

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I am using Permatex Pipe Joint Compound to seal my NPT fittings.

Link to Permatex Site Info

 

 

 

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In case I didn't note it before I am using Super Soundproofing to insulate the aircraft. 

This material is excellent for reducing noise levels in all types of certificated and home built aircraft. It is a closed cell vinyl insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. It is smooth on one side for easy attachment to the inside cabin skins, sides, top and front firewall.

Excellent for helicopters as well. Furnished in bulk 48" wide sheet, it is easily cut by scissors and attached with contact cement. Available in black only.

Complimentary Accessory: "How to Soundproof Light Aircraft" Supplement. To order this, simply add part number 09-42755 to your order.

 

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I technically haven't ordered this part yet, but will be soon. This is the Fuel Boost Pump Module from EFII. It includes two fuel filters.





 

The EFII Boost Pump Module (BPM) is the only product in its category that is professionally
engineered for maximum performance and reliability. The BPM delivers the lowest suction loss,
most stable pressure regulation, and highest quality components of any boost pump product
currently available.

The EFII Boost Pump Module also brings a new level of installation simplicity
and functionality to the fuel system of your aircraft. The BPM reduces a time consuming and
frustrating plumbing job to a simple and clean, easy to set up installation.
The Boost Pump Module is used to supply a steady source of 30PSI fuel to your engine
during take-off, landing, priming, or emergency situations. The BPM has integral back
flow prevention and pressure regulation valving.

 

 

 



 



Baggage Door and Brake Lines

I finished building the baggage door, although the section isn't complete because there are some closeout panels I need to install and I'm waiting on some more insulation before I do that. Building the door wasn't bad, although access to the rivets inside the c-channels is a bit annoying. Installing the brake lines wasn't bad either, although I find working with the hard lines can be tedious and finicky. Neither of the sections are complete as I am lacking a few steps in each. Should be finishing them soon.


Times
11th -1.25hrs- Deburred, dimpled, primed door parts.
14th -4.5hrs- Finished building baggage door.
15th -4.75hrs- Worked on brake lines.


I used some strips of insulation inside the door to make the internal skin a little stiffer. The strips will help absorb any impacts against the inside of the door.

 

 

I taped up some 0.063" spacers to help align the door hinge.

 

Only the finest quality tools are used for constructing an airplane.

Door is finished....sans lock.

Bending brake lines.

Almost finished installing the brake lines.

This is how the part pictured above fits into the aircraft. I had to make this part on both sides twice before I got it correct. Luckily my unused pitot line from the kit is the same material allowing room for the trial and error.

Engine Cowling: Vans Vs Showplanes

There are two engine cowlings available for the RV-10: the standard stock Van's Aircraft cowling and the Showplanes Cowling. Showplanes is a side company that makes parts for experimental aircraft. I am really undecided about which engine cowling I want to install when the time comes. So I thought it would be fun to ask you...the reader.

The Stats

Van's cowling
-Cheaper
-Ships with the rest of the finish kit
-Install instructions remain the same

Showplanes Cowling
-Requires larger more expensive spinner
-Improves cooling (although I have only heard this, I have yet to see any empirical data)

There is probably more points to be made, but I guess the ultimate question I ask is,

Which one do you think looks cooler?

This part is important! For those non aviation types the engine cowling sits right behind the propeller. Look closely at the engine inlets, the lower air scoop, or lack of scoop, the general shape etc..DO NOT LIKE OR DISLIKE BASED ON PAINT COLOR!    ...Have fun and feel free to leave comments.

Don't forget to vote at the end!

Van's Cowling

Showplanes Cowling

Create your free online surveys with SurveyMonkey , the world's leading questionnaire tool.

Finished Baggage Area

Another trip....another small break from building. We flew down to Destin over Labor Day weekend for my Brother-in-law's wedding. The flight was quick (quick in Cessna 172 terms...faster than driving let's say that) and easy. A little over 2hrs and the baby slept the whole way there and back.

 

Back to building.

 

I finished the baggage area over the last weekend. I have a side panel that's not permanently installed since I'm waiting on more insulation. I also didn't install the seat belt guides yet since I'm not sure what I'm doing there yet. Jess wants retractable seat belts....can't blame her I do too. I have a plan of how I'm going to do this, but until I have the parts in hand the guides will stay off the airplane. I also finished the foot well pans.

 

Dates and Times

September

Wed 4th - 1.0hrs - Pop rivet floor pans.

Thurs 5th - 1.5hrs - Rivet floor pans.

Fri 6th - 0.5hrs - Changed conduit run on RH side of aircraft to extend to seat frame.

Sat 7th - 4.75hrs - Baggage area work. Pop rivets etc.

Sun 8th -4.0hrs - Finished baggage area and panels. Started baggage door.

Tues 10th - 0.5hrs - Drilled and countersunk hinge

 

Finished the side frames. I primed them with "rattle can" epoxy primer.

I changed the conduit to run all the way to the aft seat frame. This area will be closed off with a riveted in side panel.



All the panels installed.

Started the baggage door.

I always feel like someone is watching me...

Foot Well Panel

I was tired of the careful stepping and balancing acts required to avoid the angles in the floor of the foot well and needed a better place to work from inside the airplane. So I decided to go ahead and install my floor pans into the foot wells. The floor pans are a very tight fit and like other builders I decided to just drill and dimple the parts on there own outside of the aircraft. The angles they attach to are already drilled and dimpled so I don't see any harm in this.

 

Then disaster, frustration, and high blood pressure ensued.

 

During the installation of my LH Floor Pan, a very tight fit, while trying to push slowly into position it snagged and slipped and wound up bending. This bending caused the side flange to buckle and the buckle caused a crack around a rivet hole. Pulling the part back out was a nightmare. I cussed, sweat dripping down my face, blood pressure soaring, this task was infuriating. It turns out the small cutouts that are designed to go around the frames of the bulkhead were too small, snagging and binding the pans during the installation.

 

I calmed down...sulked...got some iced tea....and went back to the shop....now what?

 

I decided to remove and deburr the cracked area of the flange on the floor pan, only on the outboard side, inboard side was ok. I'm still maintaining proper edge distance from the adjacent rivets. I also opened the cutouts that were causing the trouble large enough to clear the frames and slid the part back into position. I didn't think cutting out the cracked flange would be any problem structurally since it's just a floor pan or aesthetically since it will all be hidden behind carpet. But just to be sure I figured a second opinion wouldn't hurt so I sent an email to Vans's. They responded with:

"I see no problem with you removing the crack as you did form the floor panel."

Good....I continued building.


Date and Time
Mon 26 -1.0hr- Drilled and deburred parts

Tues 27 -2.25hrs- Deburred and dimpled parts

Wed 28 -2.0hrs-  Finished dimpling, back riveted stiffening angles, riveted access panel doublers

Insulation installed under foot wells.

 

 

Material removed from cutout to clear the frames.

 

Floor Pan in position inside foot well.

 

Area cut from floor pan angle.

I primed and installed the access hole doublers in baggage floors. I also back riveted all the stiffening angles and nutplates.



My Shop....AKA: THE AIRPLANE FACTORY.