Showing posts with label fluid lines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fluid lines. Show all posts

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Firewall Forward Stuff

With the lighting system done, I finally got to go back to working on the firewall forward stuff.

I installed covers to the old magneto locations (these covers come in the lightspeed igniton installation kit).


I made some firewall feed thrus. These are my own design made from a few cheap parts from Aircraft Spruce. They sell aluminim flanges for ducting that I riveted to the firewall using stainless steel rivets. Then I pushed some firesleeving tubing through the ducting. Everything was installed using either fire barrier caulk or hight temp RTV. Once the wires are ran through the tubing it will get filled with high temp RTV to create a fire resisant and air tight seal.

I installed the fuel lines. My fuel lines are from Bonaco and are fire sleeved. Actually all of my fluid lines that are forward of the firewall are firesleeved. I snapped this picture to show that I secured my fuel line as far from the exhaust as possible using an Adel clamp.

This is one of the oil lines and does not take the standard route of up and over the engine mount. Instead it snakes around under the oil cooler air intake tube. This route just worked better for me.

Here you can see that the manifold pressure line doesn't take the normal route either. Typically this is installed on the complete opposite side of the engine. But since my MP sensor is mounted to the manifold on the firewall it was easier to run it from the LH aft cylinder. Also, this allowed me to use the stock line.

I got the wires ran to the shunts and ANL fuses that come from both of the alternators.

I got the wires running from the power feed thru to the starter solenoid and then on to the starter.

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Service Bulletin, Standby Alternator, Baffle Install, Re-clocked Prop Governor

I have done A LOT since my last post.
- Completed Service Bulletin 14-08-29
- Installed the Standby Alternator
- Painted and installed baffles
- Reclocked my Prop Governor
- Measured for my fluid lines
- Body work on upper air ramps (Featured on later post)
- Installed cowl flaps (Featured on later post)
- Started routing my #2 wire

Dates and Times
Sept
20 -4.5hrs-
21 -5.0hrs-
22 -1.25hrs-
23 -1.25hrs-
24 -1.0hrs-
25 -1.0hrs-
26 -8.25hrs-
27 -3.0hrs-
28 -5.5hrs-
Oct
1 -1.0hrs-
3 -7.5hrs-
4 -3.5hrs-
5 -5.5hrs-


The service bulletin from Vans has you install a spacer plate between the engine mount elastomer plate and the elastomer itself. I scratched my head for a while trying to think of the best way to get the weight off the front gear so I could remove the elastomers. I first thought, and will probably do from now on since the prop would add even more weight, pulling down on the tail to raise the nose. I personally can hang from the tip of the tail and can't get the nose off the ground so any kind of weight system would need to be really big and I didn't want to hassle with that right now, I will go this route for maintenance after flying though. So I just used one of the bottle jacks I put together a while back and with some plates to help distribute the load I carefully raised the nose. Worked....but made me nervous.

The spacer plate is designed to space the elastomers off the welds of the gear. My elastomers were bent from the welds so I cut the bends out so nothing would rub in the future.....and that is why they have the spacer now.

I installed my Plane Power FS1-14B backup alternator (30Amps) on the engine "vacuum pad". Also you can see some of the tubing I'm using to measure for my fluid lines.

After I got the baffles installed I noticed that the Aerosport Mount Cover nutplates rub against my engine mount. I wish the flanges were 3 times the size on the mount covers and this would never be an issue. I'm going to have to drill these out and figure out a solution.....really not happy about this one.

Baffles painted and installed....just need to install the baffle material.


I'm real happy with the way my RH ramp turned out. Kinda looks like I know what I'm doing.

I had to re-clock my prop governor control arm so the control cable will be able to fully actuate the governor. Then I re-safety wire it.